Right here and right now!
I'll to talk you through what you need and how to make a quick start. Great if you are just bursting to have a go. Please be a little patient though, as this is quite a long read with lots of photos to fully explain the detail. It is also written with the complete beginner in mind so apologies if you don't need this level of detail.
Please note that I'm left-handed. If you are right handed your needle will be facing in the opposite direction from some of the photos.
Below is a list of what you need. If you have cross stitch or other embroidery supplies in your stash then you probably have everything you need to make a start. If not, then I've linked some items to where I purchase many of my supplies from.
(Please note that I do not receive commission from anything you may purchase. They are just a really good family run company.)
Materials
11 count Aida fabric approx. 12cm x 25cm is a good starting size but you can use 14 count too.
Perle No. 8 threads or stranded embroidery cottons in 2 shades of one colour
Sewing machine thread - any colour that will show up well on your Aida
Embroidery or small sharp scissors
Thimble (optional)
Magnifier (optional)
Good lighting
Let's get started
When you have gathered everything together, take your fabric and have a really good look at it. Get as close as you can. I used a magnifier app on my phone which I found was really helpful.
The photo below is 14 count Aida magnified (11 count has the same weave).
You can see that the fabric is made up of bands of threads running in 2 directions.
The warp threads run form top to bottom and the weft threads run from left to right.
In-between the bands are the holes that usually get used for embroidery. However, we are going to ignore the holes and look at the bands of threads, in particular the warp threads.
Each band has 4 threads which weave over and under the threads running on the opposite direction. We are interested in the 2 warp threads in the centre of each band highlighted below by the yellow circles.
These 2 threads are called floats. The needle is inserted under these 2 threads.
Have a go now at inserting the needle. Just gently insert it several times as in the photo above.
If you are right-handed, your needle will be facing in the opposite direction.
Always place the needle under these floats, never through the weft (left to right) threads.
Common problems:
Sometimes the sizing (finish) on the fabric can make it a little hard to get your needle in but just push.
Sometimes you pick up more than 2 threads (see below).
Sometimes you are trying to get the needle through the weft (left to right) threads rather than through the warp (top to bottom) threads.
Sometimes it can be hard to see the fabric. Make sure you have good light either daylight or from a good light source. If you are still finding it hard to see the fabric you could try using a hands free magnifier. Perhaps something like this. Table top versions are available too but are more expensive.
It is easy to pick up more than 2 threads at a time.
With practice you get to know just by the 'feel of it' if you've got too many.
The photo below shows the needle under 3 threads. When this happens you will be able to see the needle at the back of the fabric along with the thread.
It's also possible to just catch one thread too.
In both cases, slide the needle out and reinsert it.
It just takes a little practice!
Next stage: Mark the centre of the fabric
This is not essential. I find it so much easier to do this now as each row is started from the centre rather than the edge.
Fold the fabric in half so that the short ends are together and run your finger along to crease the line. Unfold it and place it with the long edge closest to you.
Pull the machine thread off the reel until it measures twice the height of your fabric. Cut and thread your needle.
Starting from either edge, run a line of stitches along the creased line inserting your needle under every float. You can probably get up to 6 floats at a time on your needle and then pull it through them all. Like this:
Row 1
The first row will be a row of straight stitch. It will be stitched in just the same way as the centre line just completed.
Choose one of your threads for this row.
Unwind enough to measure one and a half times the width of the fabric.
3. Cut the thread and thread your needle.
4. Fold your fabric in half the other way with the long edges together to find the centre. Crease with your finger and unfold.
5. Insert your needle under the float at the very centre. You will find that it is underneath the machine thread. Just make sure the needle goes under the float not just under the machine thread.
Note: if you find that your creased centre line has a float that runs over the top of the machine thread then use the row above or below.
If you're right handed, your needle will be facing the opposite direction.
6. Pull your needle and thread through.
7. Before you go any further you need to make sure that there is an equal amount of thread on either side of the central line. Do this by gently pulling the ends of the thread together.
This may all seem like a hassle but it does become second nature when you get the hang of it. Keep going...
8. Next, one half of the row is worked. If you are left-handed work from the centre line outwards to the right edge and if you are right-handed work from the centre line outwards to the left edge.
9. Continue inserting your needle under every float until you reach the outer edge then unthread the needle. (For this tutorial we are leaving the ends loose and dealing with them later).
10. Turn the fabric upside down, re thread the needle and stitch from the centre to the remaining outer edge.
Congratulations on completing your first row!
Row 2
Repeat steps 1-3 for Row 1 to measure your thread, cut and thread the needle. Use the other shade of thread for this row.
Back at the centre of the fabric, place your needle under the two floats either side of the machine thread line and pull it through.
If you're right handed, your needle will be facing the opposite direction
Notice how the floats on this row alternate with those on the rows above and below.
3. Pull the ends of your thread together to even up the thread on both sides of the centre line, as you did for Row 1.
4. Stitch one half of the row inserting the needle under every float. When you reach the edge, unthread your needle.
5. Turn your work upside down, re thread your needle at the middle and stitch the second half of the row.
This part may seem like a bother, however it makes sense when stitching larger pieces of work. One advantage is that you are only working with half the length at any one time which makes life easier. Working from the centre also means that the thread does not get caught around the corners of the fabric.
Row 2 complete
Well Done! That is the absolute basics of Swedish Weaving. If you would like to continue carry on reading...
To Continue
Feel free to add as many rows as you like perhaps alternating colours/shades.
Stitch them in exactly the same way as Row 1.
Other blog posts coming soon: "Dealing with the loose ends" which explains how to finish off the threads, "What other fabrics and threads can you use?"
If you are ready to carry on and stitch something more interesting a free pattern is on it's way onto the website soon. This is a free pattern designed for beginners. It includes the stitch chart and complete instructions.
Thanks for sticking with me for this long. I hope I've whetted your appetite for more.
If you would like to attend a workshop with me click here for more info.
Thanks,
See you soon,
Sarah x
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